Anthony Reginald D'Souza

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Mary’s Easy-Peasy Drumsticks


April, 2008

This is one of my mum’s favourite numbers when the machiwalli or muttonwallah didn’t turn up at the door. Great with rice, dal and a teensy-weensy piece of salty sukha bombil (dried Bombay duck).

Serves: 4

INGREDIENTS
500 gms drumsticks (clean and cut into middle finger-sized pieces)
1/2 ground coconut
1 tsp mustard seeds
5 medium onions (chopped fine)
5 Kashmiri chillies (break into half)
1 tsp oil
Salt to taste

HOW TO
Heat oil in pot.
Fry mustard and chillies till they start to pop.
Add onions.
Fry till translucent.
Add chopped drumsticks and ground coconut.
Add salt to taste.
Keep flame on low.
Cook till water from drumsticks dries out.
Done.
Enjoy!

April 21, 2008 tonywrites Permalink Leave a response Veggies, cooking, drumsticks, love, Mary's, mother, mum, recipe

Mary’s Easy-Peasy Spinach


February, 2008

A no-brainer accompaniment to a main dish. Sure, it’s more an everyday meal kind of dish. Didn’t like it much as a kid but have grown to appreciate it (not like Popeye, though, unfortunately). I make it on days when I have this vague urge to exercise or do something healthy like that.

Serves: 4

INGREDIENTS
2 sheaves spinach (washed and roughly chopped)
2 medium onions (cut fine)
2 green chillies (cut lengthwise)
3 garlic cloves (crushed)
1 tsp oil
Salt to taste

HOW TO
Heat oil in pot.
Fry chillies and garlic till almost brown.
Add spinach and chopped onions.
Add salt to taste.
Keep flame on low.
Cook till water from spinach dries out.
Done.
Enjoy!

February 3, 2008 tonywrites Permalink Leave a response Veggies, cooking, love, Mary's, mother, mum, recipe, spinach

Caje’s Beef Juliennes

September, 2006
My dad, God bless his soul, was a rock ‘n’ roll cook. All my life whenever I watched him cook, I never ever saw him use a spoon, leave alone a measuring spoon, when it came to herbs, spices, seasoning; essentially the whole shebang. Pops smidgened, dashed and pinched with his fingers. Chucking ’em in, as I like to say, just like that only; and crash, boom, bang, boy! did he make food sing.

Dad made Beef Juliennes on festive days. I haven’t eaten this dish in years. So this Christmas at the Batcave, I attempted it totally from memory. This requires an explanation. I learned much, much later in life what a ‘julienne’ meant. Growing up, I thought it was beef made by a guy called Julian. My only memory is of unwinding the string that curled around a strip of beef, which had juliennes of potato, carrot and some other veggie with its folds. Heaven! Thanks, Dad.

Serves 6

INGREDIENTS

1 kg beef (cut into thick strips (12 nos. at least) and flatten with a mallet into 5” x 3” rectangles)
Marinade: 
Splash of vinegar
1 tsp garlic paste
1 tsp ginger paste
1 tsp East Indian green masala (use your masala of choice)
A little salt
~~~
2 large potatoes (cut like a French fry)
2 carrots (julienne to F. fry length)
2 capsicums (julienne ditto)
2 tbsp oil
3 bay leaves
2 cardamoms
2 medium onions, chopped fine
2 medium tomatoes, c. fine
3 green chillies, split lengthwise
1 tsp garlic paste
1⁄2 tsp ginger paste
1⁄2 tsp tumeric powder
1 tsp chilli powder
1 and 1⁄2 tsps East Indian green masala
Tamarind (lemon-sized ball of; keep in bowl of hot water prior to prep)
Salt to taste

HOW TO

Let beef marinate overnight in fridge.
In a large pan, heat oil.
Fry potatoes till brown on each side but don’t allow to cook completely.
Give carrots and capsicum the same treatment.
Remove beef from fridge.
On a clean cutting board, lay a strip of beef.
Assemble a julienne each of potato, carrot and capsicum on it and roll the meat around them into a tube.
Now for the fun bit!
Wind cotton thread round and around the tube till juliennes firmly secure. Voila! A beef julienne. Ditto with the rest.
In the same pan, heat a little more oil.
In with b. leaves and cardamom.
Fry till they release aroma.
Fry onions till translucent.
Then fry tomatoes till its water dries up.
In with the chillies, ginger, garlic and powders.
Stir till you get the aroma.
Then arrange the beef juliennes in the pan and cover.
Let beef stew in own juices of 10-15 minutes on a low flame (or till water starts to dry up).
Next, add water.
Just enough to cover the beef by a finger’s width.
Bring to a boil.
Then let the beef burble in pan on low flame till it cooks tender (check with a fork).
When almost done, squeeze juice out of tamarind and add to the broth.
Add salt to taste.
Gently shake the pan around.
When done, remove bay leaves and cardamoms, and allow beef to rest for 10-15 minutes.
I enjoy the ritual of unstringing the beef julienne as I eat but for the more orderly in our midst, de-string prior to plating (clean hands, merci b.), which come to think of it, makes for a better presentation.
Best with steamed rice.
Enjoy!

February 2, 2008 tonywrites Permalink Leave a response Beef, beef, cooking, dad, love, recipe

Dal Antonio a.k.a. The ‘Bastard’ Doll


Um, can’t remember but sometime this century!

You must have read about the – What would be your last meal on Death Row? – thing. Here’s mine: Steamed rice, tadka dal, piece of fried surmai, papad and mango pickle. Throw in a few chilled beers, and that’s it. Last meal, last deal, last feel and screw washing up later. The final chapter in a life well (mis)spent. There are a thousand versions of dal or doll, as pronounced by my Aunts: Flo & Betty. I’ve eaten about 22 and counting. This number is my version: No.44. Hence Dal Antonio. I like my dal fiery and hot so I also call this the ‘Bastard’ version. Like you eat it, enjoy it, and next morning suffer it, and go: ‘Bastard’.

 

Serves 6

INGREDIENTS

3/4 cup tuvar dal
3/4 cup moong dal
2 medium tomatoes (roughly chopped)

~~~

Tadka:
1-2 tbsp oil
2-3 bay leaves
Handful curry leaves
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp mustard seeds
2 green chillies (sliced lengthwise)
5 garlic cloves (roughly chopped)
1/2″ piece of ginger (chopped super fine)
1 medium onion (chopped fine)
1/2 tsp turmeric powder
1 tsp chilli powder
2 tsps sambar masala
Salt to taste

HOW TO


Wash and soak dals in water for an hour.
In a large pot, put in 6 cups of water.
Add tomatoes.
Bring to a boil then put flame on low (it should take around an hour or so; if you use a pressure cooker, I don’t know, maybe 15 minutes; my rule of thumb is 3-4 whistles).
Cook till dals almost soft.
Ten minutes before dals cook, in frying pan heat oil on a high flame.
When smoking, fry b. and c. leaves (they’ll go brown in seconds).
Quickly toss in seeds: mustard and cumin.
When they splutter and pop, toss in green chilles.
Next garlic and ginger followed by onions.
Keep stirring all the time.
Lower flame and add the tumeric and chilli powder, and sambar masala.
Stir till aroma of spices wafts out of pan.
Then ladle in four to five heaps of dal into the frying pan.
Stir and allow dal to absorb the tadka.
The return f. pan’s contents to the pot with dal.
Stir till tadka evenly distributed.
Allow to come to boil.
Put flame on low.
Add salt to taste.
Let dal cook uncovered for another 10-15 minutes.
In the meanwhile, on a nice, big white plate, arrange a towering mountain of steamed rice.
Blob of mango pickle left top of plate (to the right if you’re right-handed; ’tis necessary culinary ergonomics; especially if you’re wearing a long-sleeved shirt). Place surmai fry in side plate; fried (screw roasting ’em) papad in another.
Ladle immense helping of dal over rice.
Son-of-a-bitch!
Enjoy!!

July 12, 2007 tonywrites Permalink Leave a response Dal, cooking, dal, love, recipe, spicy

John Lennon’s Rice

Definitely after A Hard Day’s Night
There are 101 ways to flavour rice. Imagine coming up with the 102nd. Bloody simple to do, too. Just fry whatever flavour you want to experiment with. Make sure there’s no water left. Fry the rice in the mush you’ve created. Add water in proportion to rice, and as the British say, Bob’s your uncle!

Serves 2

INGREDIENTS
1 tsp oil
1 medium onion
1/2 tsp mustard seeds
Dash of tumeric powder
1/2 cup peas
1 cup rice
Salt to taste

HOW TO

Heat oil.
Toss mustard.
Wait till they pop.
Fry onions.
Add t. powder.
Next, fry rice till opaque.
Add peas.
Add water (rice : water; 1 : 2)
Bring to a boil.
Cover pot.
Put flame on low.
The rice will cook between 17-12 minutes.
Enjoy!

June 3, 2007 tonywrites Permalink Leave a response Rice, beatles, cooking, imagine, love, recipe, rice

Dylan’s Pasta In Tomato Sauce


Circa 2007

My son, Dylan, is a foodie in the making. Aw-shucks, if you were here as I typed in that sentence, you’d see me beaming from ear to ear. Whenever I’m cooking, he’s always buzzing around, asking me what I’m doing, how I’m doing it, and can he do something, too. Maybe it’s the gleam on my 25 cm knife that has him mesmerized. Maybe it’s the flavour of the food I cook (I hope it’s the latter). But, man, if ever I want an appreciative audience (if that’s the right term) for my cooking, all I ask for is the presence of young Dylan.

When it comes to food, kids, as any parent will confirm, are fussy little so-and-sos. Sods, is another valid description. So you can imagine my delight when D (as I mostly call him) is quite open to a variety of preparations in fish and meat and chicken and veggies, as well. Mind you, all this despite the hype and pull of effing McDonald’s effing rubbish Happy Meal, possibly the numero uno meal available beyond the golden arches of Hell; Mr. Ray Kroc, sir, another portion?

Be that as it may, from all the stuff I make for D, he’s the happiest and most content when I plate up pasta with tomato sauce. Now, I’m a huge fan of la cucina Italiana. Mainly because of the simplicity, and the marriage of, and the absolute insistence on, quality ingredients. From my scanty knowledge of Italian food, I’ve gleaned that a good tomato sauce is a fundamental pillar of that ancient and remarkable cuisine. I’ve read a zillion recipes on how to make an authentic Italian tomato sauce, and I think I can make one that would make a Mamma proud and dissuade rock-pinkied gentlemen from feeding me to the pesce. Buono appetito!

Serves 2

INGREDIENTS
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
4 top quality tomatoes (other option: canned tomatoes)
1/2 onion (cut real fine)
1 clove garlic (smashed and chopped fine)
1 tbsp tomato paste/purée
Salt
Fresh pepper
1/4 cup fresh basil
–
250 gms spaghetti
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt
Fresh pepper

HOW TO
Blanch tomatoes in boiling hot water for a couple of minutes.
Peel off skin, chop in quarters, get rid of seeds.
Heat oil in pan.
Heat should be on low.
Sauté onions till soft and translucent (cover pan; let cook for 10-12 minutes).
Next, garlic and basil.
Cover.
Give another 5 minutes.
Then add the tomatoes and tomato paste/ purée.
And salt and fresh pepper.
Stir and let it simmer till it reduces to a nice, thick sauce.
–
Ideally, start on the pasta when the tomatoes are cooking.
Bring water to boil in a large pot.
Flavour water with a handful of salt.
Put in spaghetti (follow instructions on packet).
When done (al dente), set to drain in colander.
Add a few dashes of o. oil in pot.
Return penne to pot and swirl/toss it to give the pasta a coating of o. oil.
Done.
–
Place spaghetti in centre of plate.
Put a few scoops of tomato sauce on top of spaghetti (don’t submerge it with sauce; rather just ensure there’s enough sauce to coat the spaghetti when mixed into it).
Crack some fresh pepper over it.
Decorate with a few threads of olive oil.
Garnish with fresh basil.
Enjoy!

April 8, 2007 tonywrites Permalink Leave a response Pasta, cooking, italian, love, pasta, recipe, sauce, tomato

Nana Anna’s Bottle Masala Chicken

Boxing Day, 2006
If you don’t know what Bottle Masala means, a quick introduction. It’s a fabled masala made by Bombay’s East Indian community. Essentially it’s a blend of 20 spices or more; ground by hand on a grinding stone. The making of Bottle Masala is a seasonal process; summer mostly, I think. Once the masala is ready, the divine powder is stored in washed, sun-dried glass bottles that once held Boost, Horlicks, Brooke Bond Red Label Tea, Bru Filter Coffee and Tang. Hence, the term, Bottle Masala.

Each and every family has its own special blend and the recipes are passed on mouth-to-ear from generation to generation. The recipes are guarded ferociously and nothing short of sticking lit matchsticks between Aunt Helen’s toes can unlock their secrets. But why resort to such heinous tactics? East Indians are among the most generous of Bombay’s citizens; many a bottle of Bottle Masala has found its way into the hearts and souls and shelves of an appreciative multitude. In Bombay, Borneo, Timbuctoo… and Toronto; my stash was courtesy my cousin Jack’s wife’s nana Anna. I used some of it to make chicken curry for a bunch of O’Briens, O’Tooles, O’Caseys, O’Donnels… Oh, I’m sure you’ve got the picture; a a houseful of Irish blokes and then some.

I met Aideen O’Brien* through my friend Ross. It was Christmas eve and Ross and I had the pleasure of chugging gallons of beers with Aideen and family and friends at an Irish pub called… hmmm, never mind. Filled with lashings of spirits: Christmas and Jack Daniels, I cheerfully agreed to make dinner for Aideen & Co. on Boxing Day.

Despite the excesses of Christmas Day, I found myself in fine fettle on D-Day. No jitters, no d.t.’s, nuffink. Aided by vast quantities of Sleeman’s lager, of which Aideen kept up a steady supply, and the occasional cigarette break, Aideen, Ross and I turned out quite meal: Tumeric-flavoured potatoes, chicken drumsticks in tikka masala, a tangy dal, chicken curry, steamed rice and a cucumber/spring onion raita. To my delight, the food went down well. Yes, the food was spicy (as Indian food should be); yet not hot enough to make an Irishman relinquish his Guinness or Jameson for a drink he rarely allows to pass his lips: water. And that, ladies, gents and assorted bacteria, is what I consider a compliment.

Serves 12

INGREDIENTS

12 chicken breasts on the bone
Marinade:
 2 tsps ginger-garlic paste
~~~
3 tbsp oil
12 curry leaves
3 bay leaves
3 onions, chopped fine
3 tomatoes, chopped fine
1 and 1/2 tsp ginger-garlic paste
1⁄2 tsp tumeric powder
1 tsp chilli powder
2 tsp Bottle Masala (use any masala you prefer/have)
800ml chicken stock
Salt to taste

HOW TO

Slash even cuts across the chicken breasts.
Deep yet not too much; so the flesh should not fall away when cooked; makes for a good presentation.
Marinate with 2 tsp of ginger-garlic paste.
Minimum an hour; more time, more flavour, of course.
~~~
Heat oil in a large pot.
Keep flame on medium.
When hot, toss in curry leaves and bay leaves.
When aroma unleashed, in with the onions.
Fry till translucent.
Then tomatoes.
Cook till tomato juices are gone.
Next, fry 1 and 1⁄2 tsps ginger-garlic paste along with powders: tumeric and chilli, followed by Bottle Masala.
Stir till you can smell the spices.
Bring the ‘bagar’ to a side of the pan.
Then, arrange breast pieces, flesh side down, so it can fry in the oil.
Scoop ‘bagar’ on top of the breast pieces.
If all the chicken pieces don’t fit in bottom of pan, start making another layer with the remaining pieces.
Spread ‘bagar’ over new pieces, too.
Put flame a shade below medium.
Allow chicken juices to run out and cook the flesh (wait for a few minutes and you will see all the juices have come out).
When the juices reduce by half, turn the pieces over so other side gets a bit of frying.
When juices almost gone, pour in the chicken stock.
Allow to cook till stock reduces by 1/3rd.
Then arrange the chicken in an ovenproof dish.
Pour juices over it.
Don’t cover.
Slide into oven preheated at 176.6ºC (350ºF) for 15-20 mins.
The juices will further reduce (and intensify flavour) and the chicken will have a yummy crunchy coating yet the flesh below will be tender and moist.
Enjoy!
*Apart from other things, Aideen is a singer too. Check her out at aideenobrien.com

December 26, 2006 tonywrites Permalink Leave a response Chicken, bottle masala, chicken, cooking, east indian, love, recipe

Aideen’s Roasted Chicken Drumsticks In Tikka Masala With Baked Potatoes

Boxing Day, 2006
A Greek mathematician takes a bath and makes a famous discovery which we know as the Archimedes Principle. An English physicist sees a falling apple and discovers what keeps doctors, et al, etc. rooted to terra firma and thud! we got Newton’s laws of gravity. A French monk discovers he’s peeing stars, makes a region’s name the toast of the world and gets his on a label: Dom Pérignon. An Irishwoman opens a fridge and discovers a half-empty bottle of readymade tikka masala… History, and good food, is where you find it.

Serves 6

INGREDIENTS
12 chicken drumsticks with skin intact.
Olive oil
Salt
Fresh pepper
3 large dollops of Sharwood’s Tikka Masala
~~~
6 potatoes (cut in halves; leave jacket on)

HOW TO

Take chicken drumsticks.
Push away skin to reveal flesh.
Arrange on a large roasting pan.
Splash olive oil hither and thither.
Sprinkle o. oil and salt and pepper.
Bang in the c.t. masala.
Rub everything into drumsticks.
Then, pull up skin and generally rub all over so drumsticks are coated within and without.
~~~
Arrange potaotes in r. pan; cut side facing up.
Sprinkle salt and pepper over them.
Annoint each with a dash of o. oil.
~~~
Foil the pan and bung into oven, pre-heated at 450ºF (232ºC) for 45 minutes.
Remove, discard foil, return to oven under broiler for 15 minutes for drumsticks and taters to acquire a nice tan.
Remove.
Gorge!

December 26, 2006 tonywrites Permalink Leave a response Chicken, boxing day, cooking, irish, love, party, recipe

Surgeon-General’s Delight

An evening in December, 2006
I swear to God this is the one that gets you top billing in an ER. This is less about cooking and more about scavenging through the fridge and using things edible, close to expiry date or just for the heck of it. It all began with the discovery of some frozen roast pork fat in the freezer (don’t ask; won’t tell).

Of course, as always, these kind of meals always are preceded by massive amounts of liquor and smoke. So when we tossed this meal down the hatch, we did it without a qualm. I mean, if the l. and s. ain’t gonna get ya tonight, a 25,000 calorie meal is not exactly going to gum up the old, clogged arteries.

Yes, Surgeon General? Another helping? Sure, sir.

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

Sweet Filipino sausages
A splash of olive oil
A few drops of sesame oil
Chili sauce
Roast pork fat (Source it from a Goan home; December 26th is a good day to try)
1 big onion, cut fine
4 garlic cloves, chopped
2 medium potatoes, diced tiny
1/2 tsp cayenne powder
1/2 tsp gusanito powder (Mexican salt with ground worm; yes, the tequila worm)
Five eggs, beaten silly

HOW TO


Start by defrosting the frozen sausages in a pan of boiling water.
This also helps cook it in a way.
When all bubbly, remove from pan.
Roughly chop into bite-sized pieces.
Empty water from pan, put in olive and sesame oil.
Chuck in sausages.
As they fry mother them with as much chili sauce as you dare.
Remove and keep aside.
In same pan, add roast pork fat.
When it’s all sizzling, in go the onions.
Fry till brown.
Then garlic till soft.
Next, potatoes.
Since they’re cut tiny, they’re going to cook quite quickly.
When they’re almost done, add cayenne and gusanito powder.
Re-introduce the sausages into the mix.
When everything is all nice and friendly, pour in the eggs.
Lid the pan and set the flame on low.
Give it seven minutes or so (enough time to knock back a drink or have a quick smoke; both, too).
Then one quick little prayer, maybe Grace; dive in; enjoy!

December 14, 2006 tonywrites Permalink Leave a response Disco, Eggs, Pork, cooking, eggs, love, recipe, sausages

Sun In A Pan

0530 hours after a night out (?) in December, 2006
Perfect for sloppy mornings when it’s dark outside and all you want to do is feed the hangover and stumble back to bed and die. As everyone knows, there are 101 ways to make an egg. And another 101 ways to scramble it. But I always wanted to have eggs with a lot of onions and masala yet not scrambled or in an omelette; rather with eggs sunny side up, the yolks just a wee bit runny inside.

So first, to cure the DTs (delirium tremens; the horrors, the shakes or rum fits) remove a couple of eggs and a nice cold beer from the fridge. While the eggs come down to room temperature, the beer cools down the bogeymen doing the pitchfork polka in your head. Another beer for strength and courage to wield a sharp knife and face spluttering hot oil. (Please note, I’m referring to 330 ml cans and not 750 ml bottles; not that a few ml here and there will do any harm!)

Then, when you feel like the sun is feebly breaking through the clouds in your head, go ahead and prepare a meal that’s guaranteed to bring the sunshine back into your life. That, and another beer.

Serves 1

INGREDIENTS
Large splash of olive oil
1 large onion (halved and cut lengthwise)
1 tomato (cut chunky)
Smidgen of tumeric powder
Dash of chilli powder
Pinch of garam masala
2 eggs
Fresh pepper
Salt to taste

HOW TO
In a pan, heat oil.
Add onions and tomatoes.
Cover.
Flame on medium.
After 6-8 minutes the onions get caramelised and slightly burned; the tomato has released its juices.
Sprinke the pinch, dash and smidgen.
Crack an egg and gently lower it into a side of the pan.
Repeat on other side of pan.
Sprinkle salt and pepper on each egg.
Cover the pan, put the flame on low, and cook till the yolks get firm yet a little yellowy-wobbly.
Remove pan to table.
Don’t bother with plates and other such nonsense.
Scoop portions onto piece of bread.
Chew.
Interrupt chewing with swigs.
Finally, scrape the pan clean.
Down the last dregs of beer.
Put on some light jazz.
Fire up a smoke.
Retire to couch/bed and figure out if you’ve just cracked 42.
Enjoy!

December 10, 2006 tonywrites Permalink Leave a response Disco, Eggs, cooking, eggs, love, recipe, sunshine
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